Archive | Fashion & Design RSS feed for this section

Dear John

An interview with menswear designer John Bartlett by Nell Alk. Photos 1-3 by Dan Lecca. Photo 4 by Nick Ugluizza.
John Bartlett

Designer John Bartlett

CFDA award-winning menswear designer John Bartlett returned to the fashion scene this week with his SS13 collection, a comfortably tailored, richly hued, linen-based line. While the visionary produced a nuanced presentation last winter, his first showcase in some time, this past Tuesday at noon the talent reestablished himself as a formidable figure within Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. The last time his eponymous label rocked the runway in such a high-profile capacity, MBFW’s tents were erected in Bryant Park.

Bartlett’s resurgence is cause for celebration. A commitment to ethical fashion—rejecting animal-made materials and embracing the genuinely eco-conscious—sets him apart in the industry. In fact, I’m told Bartlett’s is the first show—ever—to stage at the official MBFW venue while explicitly foregoing the use of animals for clothes.

Of course, values in fashion can’t work without the “fashion” part, and Bartlett, as ever, delivers. This time around, his expert eye for playful luxurious style is lasered in, from head to toe, on long-underestimated linen. “Linen is the most sustainable fabric besides hemp. Even over cotton,” he explained to us onsite, minutes before 21 handsome men strutted their stuff for a room packed to capacity. Read More…

The Tie Tailor

A profile of SKINNYFATTIES founder Joshua Brueckner. Written and photographed by Dan Mims.

Joshua Brueckner, founder of SKINNYFATTIESI’ve been saying “skinny fatties,” but I’m getting the feeling that, though acceptable, it’s not necessarily the preferred pronunciation. Joshua Brueckner, founder of SKINNYFATTIES, has been nice about letting me say it only my way up to this point, but now that I’m introducing him and his work to friends at Fontana’s in the LES, he offers an annotation. “You can also say it, ‘skinny fat ties,’” he states, before adding, “Either way!”

“Skinny fat ties” actually makes a little more sense—or at least delivers more descriptive precision. Under the SKINNYFATTIES label, Brueckner takes your old wide-load, 3.5-inch-plus neckties and converts them into the slimmer, more youthful cut preferred by today’s men-about-town. For those of us who have kept our ‘90s-chic wide ties until now, despite believing for the past several years that we’d never wear them again, Brueckner is our savior. Read More…

Beating a Bear Market

Written by Nell Alk. Photos #1 and 2 by Jo-Anne McArthur of Animals Asia Foundation.

A Rescued Moon Bear | photographed by Jo-Anne McArthur

Those in the know know that Western culture has a tremendously long way to go regarding the way we treat other species. We also know that the animal protection movement is a global one, not to be constrained to praising or criticizing the practices of any one region in particular.

Still, when Western animal advocates think about China, we generally think of the world’s most merciless environment of animal abuse. Even cursory protection laws there seem either non-existent or unenforced, and, culturally, there seem to be no “sacred cows.” We think about dogs and cats routinely factory farmed; insane folk traditions about ingesting tigers’ testicles or rhinos’ horns to enhance sexual performance; stray dogs (and sometimes domesticated ones) being bludgeoned to death on the street by government authorities; the world’s highest consumption of fur products, the world’s largest exports of finished fur products, and the world’s least regulated fur farming industry, relentlessly torturing and then skinning animals, often while still alive; unchecked industrial pollution extinguishing local species such as the baiji; and bile farms where native Moon Bears are kept in immobilizing “crush cages” for up to thirty years in order to painfully milk their bile for its inessential medicinal value via open-wound catheters. All this is in addition to practicing the familiar animal exploitations we know too well in the West but with even less regulation or political pressure to meet minimal standards of care.

A Moon Bear Goes for a Swing at Sanctuary | photographed by Jo-Anne McArthurThat’s a long rap sheet. Yet news of local resistance—a dramatic citizen rescue of dogs on their way to slaughter, or the establishment of a new Moon Bear sanctuary—is peeking optimistically through, and if you’ve heard of those bear sanctuaries, you’ve heard about the work of a singular and determined organization: Animals Asia. Begun by Jill Robinson in 1998, the nonprofit is devoted to the protection of both wild and urban animals in Asia. As part of a measured yet ambitious campaign to end bear farming, Animals Asia has established several sanctuaries, providing safe havens for abused bears and logistical solutions for what do with the bears whenever the organization manages to close such a farm. That’s happened an impressive 43 times, by the way. Read More…

Where the Heart Is

Written by Nell Alk. Photo #1 by Bridget Laudien. Photo #3 by Erin Yamagata. 

Leanne Mai-Ly Hilgart, Vaute CoutureLike the beautiful, innovative, animal-friendly winter coats she makes via her fashion label Vaute Couture, anyone who knows her (and even the legions of fans who technically don’t) can see—can feel—the warmth, the vibrance, the compassion of Leanne Mai-Ly Hilgart. Amidst a glow like that, and because she makes it all look so natural and effortless, it’s easy to overlook Leanne’s most remarkable quality—her resilience.

She’s singlehandedly raised an indie fashion label, where the workload today is always too much and tomorrow promises an increase. Add to that the capital-intensive nature of the fashion biz and the often monumental challenges of both doing and convincing other people to do the right thing, as Leanne does with her animal-honoring policies and messaging, and we’re only beginning to appreciate her accomplishments and vexations. “I’ve been doing this by myself for three-and-a-half years and I outgrew [that aspect] before I even launched the label [in 2009]. This fall/winter season in particular nearly killed me.”

It also made her stronger. She and VC turned a huge corner this month with the unveiling of the label’s first boutique, called Vaute Here, in trendsetting Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Opening a store is the milestone that officially declares any fashion label’s legitimacy to (or, perhaps in VC’s case, at) the fashion establishment. Read More…

A Roze (No Thorns)

Written and photographed by Nell Alk. 

Guy Rozenstrich and pooch MidasBeneath a black-and-white striped awning on 8th Avenue, just steps north of Jane Street in the West Village, is gem among jewelers Phoenix Roze. Peering through glass windows and poring over display cases, it doesn’t take a girl long to fall in love with the work of designer and storeowner Guy Rozenstrich, as notable fans like Helena Christensen, Miranda Kerr, and Hilary Swank have also discovered. Read More…

Cut and Sewn Back Together Again (pt. 2)

An Interview with Marie Cordella by Nell Alk. Photos by Jason Dail, courtesy of Marie Cordella Design. 

Here’s Part 2 of our interview with sustainable dress designer Marie Cordella, who competes next Thursday night on Lifetime’s 24 Hour Catwalk. (Check out Part 1 of the interview here.)

Marie Cordella Design

You lived in New York on Septemper 11th. What was it like returning to NYC?
It was hard for me. I never really talk about it. I happened to be in the street during 9/11 and saw it happen. Read More…

Cut and Sewn Back Together Again (pt. 1)

An Interview with Marie Cordella by Nell Alk. Photographs by Jason Dail, courtesy of Marie Cordella Design. 

Marie Cordella DesignI first met dress designer Marie Cordella backstage at a concert in April 2009, at Brooklyn’s Bell House. She was touring with also-North Carolina-based indie duo The Rosebuds, outfitting lead singer Kelly Crisp, and I remember being immediately intrigued by her distinctive aesthetic and infectious personality. Not surprisingly, I’m not the only one taking note. Since then she’s fashioned a path to NC notoriety (headlining Charleston Fashion Week last year) and impending national exposure, most recently having been invited to New York City as a contestant on Lifetime’s 24 Hour Catwalk. Even better, she’s got some noteworthy green credentials. Read More…

Mod Math!

Written and photographed by Megan Rascal. 

Multiplication at Mathematica, New York Hall of Science

In the early 1960s, when IBM was asked by the California Museum of Science and Industry in Los Angeles to contribute an exhibit, the technology giant reached out to Mid-Century modern design royalty (and husband-and-wife) Charles and Ray Eames. Mathematica (completed in 1961) is the result, and if you know anything about the Eameses, you know they would would never make some dry, boring show. Instead they crafted an interactive exhibit that’s basically like a really awesome class trip to a swinging sixties funhouse… of learning! Read More…

John Bartlett Cuts His Own Way

Written by Nell Alk. Photographed by Greg Vaughan.

Last Thursday brought blistering temps and whipping winds, but that didn’t stop invitees from turning out in droves at Milk Studios for the first night of AW12 Fashion Week shows. The long line advanced at a snail’s pace but proved worth the wait as we sought the night’s most interesting prize: a viewing of John Bartlett’s buzzingly groundbreaking new collection.

As feeling returned to our fingers and toes and a frenzied party greeted us inside, we made our way through dense human forest to discover Bartlett’s boyish models, who were made to look muddied from a long day of work (or play).

John Bartlett AW12

It’s the kind of stylish impracticality that tends to abide only on the fantasyscapes of runways and photo shoots, but Bartlett’s cheeky conceit worked better than most. Equal parts Lord of the Flies and The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou, Bartlett’s presentation, an evolution of his trademark mix of big colors (rich reds, bright blues, canary yellows) and sporty, outdoorsy masculinity, showcased crown jewels like recycled microfiber ultrasuede motorcycle jackets, smartly tailored with zippers, pockets, and buckles; dependable basics like organic cotton long johns and form-fitting henleys, with visual textures from tartans to stripes to aforementioned solids; and feet either bared or dressed in M:Zero loafers by Melissa and Hunter wellies. It was a story of whimsy-meets-manly, and I for one particularly appreciated the fearlessness it takes to pair red with red with red, as Bartlett chose for one of his most striking ensembles. Read More…